Nankoweap, Grand Canyon Backpack

Original Trip Description: (April 18-25, 1992)
This arduous backpack takes us to the Nankoweap and Kwagunt Creek arms of the Grand Canyon. The group's efforts will be rewarded with outstanding views of Nankoweap Mesa, Saddle Mountain, the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, and Marble Canyon. We'll enter the Canyon on the Nankoweap Trail and exit upper Nankoweap six days later by climbing a precipitous off-trail route through the Redwall. The trip is planned for the spring with the hopes that we can see Mystic Falls in full flow. Several fine Indian granaries in the upper arm of Nankoweap Creek below Seiber Point will be visited.
We'll also camp two nights along the Colorado River on a couple of the most beautiful sandy beaches the Grand Canyon has to offer. A side trip to the frequently visited Nankoweap granary near the river will be possible from on of these camps. Mid-trip, we will follow the old Horsethief Trail route over the Butte Fault from Kwagunt Creek to Nankoweap Creek, climbing Nankoweap Butte along the way. The trip may have one layover day. This is a strenuous trip for experienced backpackers only. Prior experience in off-trail hiking is mandatory.
Originates @ Lee's Ferry, AZ.

Mystic Falls

Butte Fault Route

Trip Report:

The supplement in our newsletter called this trip "an arduous backpack into the Nankoweap and Kwagunt arms of the Grand Canyon." After the first and last days of this trip, our group truly knew the meaning of the word arduous. Thanks to the Forest Service, the road to Saddle Mountain hunting camp has now been closed approximately a mile from the old trailhead. With the addition of this extra mile, anyone attempting to reach Nankoweap Creek in a day is going to be busy, especially if it is hot. We left the cars at 9:00 AM and after a short gluing session on the Bob's brand new sole-flopping Merrell boots, we started up the trail. Even with only a half hour for lunch, none of us reached camp before 5:00 PM, and the stragglers came in as late as 6:30. Due to a fast moving front, the first day's weather conditions were sunny but cool, so we didn't have to carry much water. The following days warmed up quite a bit and we later looked back to that first cool day with added appreciation.

After the long first day everyone was tired and we hiked only two miles to the Nankoweap river camp the next day. Unfortunately, Jane severely sprained her ankle on the way. Bob was perched on a rock taking a break, watching her and David proceed down canyon. Inexplicably, she was on the ground. These things happen so fast. Later that day her ankle swelled and turned tell-tale black and blue. It appeared that she was in for a long, uncomfortable trip. During the following days, she never complained and covered most of the ground that the rest of us did, resting when she could. The Ace wrap that she applied to stabilize the ankle led to blisters but she pluckily continued on. Bob led his first National Sierra Club trip to Nankoweap ten years ago with Jane accompanying him and has now traveled with her on five trips. He always knew she was a good backpacker but now knows she is also one tough lady. We took it easy at mid-day by the river and most of us went up the nearly vertical climb to the Indian granaries later in the afternoon to enjoy the spectacular downstream and upstream views.

Nankoweap Valley is an especially beautiful place. The many Indian ruins in the upper valleys, and the primitive artifacts found around them, add to the excitement of any trip. Who could forget the nearly perfectly preserved Indian granaries, with their slab doors, on that high ledge below Seiber Point? The snow on the canyon rims was practically gone, but we still saw Mystic Falls in fine form. While hiking to get up underneath it, we found more primitive granaries. Blackbrush was laced with Mariposa Lilies. Cliff Rose perfumed our camps. We were glad that we had indulged ourselves by bringing Stephen Whitney's Field Guide to Grand Canyon.

The route out of the canyon between Seiber and Marion Points was an adventure. At times the climb was near vertical and continuous route finding amongst slabs of rock was necessary. Near the top we had to ascend the Supai layers through blackbrush, manzanita, locust, and other scratchy brush. After close to five hours effort we reached the saddle, cut the trail, and rolled on down to the cars. We considered giving Bob Inman an award for legs that looked the most like a pizza topping. We wonder if he went back to California with tall tales about being attacked by mountain lions. Self-proclaimed trip wimp, Marge, made it out in record time and declared that she would take the route out over the first day's trail anytime, in either direction. Thanks Marge for not out-hiking and embarrassing Susan again. This time Susan was actually able to bend and straighten her legs the day after the trip.

We decided to abort some of the planned exploration in the upper arms of Kwagunt because of excessive brush in the stream bed. We were able to explore the longest arm of Nankoweap Creek but had to forego the shorter, wetter arm due to insufficient time. This left us wondering what other interesting sights remain to be explored in the far reaches of Nankoweap and Kwagunt.

This was our first primarily vegetarian backpack trip and it worked out fairly well. We served meat at lunch, which was optional, and all dinners contained seafood or soy meat substitutes. Vegetarians and carnivores alike raved about the food and we came out of the canyon with a little squeeze margarine, some hot chocolate, and not much else. Our thanks to David, this trip's best eater, for saving us from having to carry out any extra weight that last day. Marilyn and Blue deserve an award for the best looking Blueberry Cheesecake we have ever devoured on a backpack. All of the cook teams did an excellent job.

We had lunch at the cars and regrouped at Lee's Ferry Lodge for good-byes and a cold one for the road. If you find yourself up in the Marble Canyon area, stop in for a bite to eat at the Lee's Ferry (Vermilion Cliffs) Lodge. Their food is excellent, the coffee fresh, the beer selection broad (they're up to 90 different brands), and the atmosphere hospitable. Marge found it pleasant enough to spend a night there before and after the trip.