From Susan's Peru Journal, September 1997

A typical scene at most sites, was a Quechua lady in native dress, with or without llama, alpaca, or small children also in native dress, offering the opportunity to shoot photos for a mere sol per person, the equivalent of about $.40. The animals were adorned with hair ribbons and were quite cute. The next stop was supposed to be Qenco, but time was running short and we decided to bypass it. We set up lunch on a rock wall on the way down to Sacsayhuaman and were quickly surrounded by school children on their way home. They seemed more curious than hungry and left soon after Jim bribed them with hard candy. The enormous blocks of Sacsayhuaman were some of the most impressive that we viewed during our entire time in Peru. Our descent down through the back streets of Cuzco was an eye opener for those who had not yet been away from the main tourist areas. Cuzco's population of about 400,000 lives primarily in a tight area of high density housing. It is rare to find any open space in the sea of red tiled roofs and walls.

On our third day, the Rabbit picked us up and we headed for Pisac. We stopped for views and to shop for tourist goods at a scenic viewpoint along the road. Then Rabbit dropped us at the highest point of this enormous ruin site. From the top ruins we could see a huge number of funerary caves. The Pisac site is built all over the sides of a mountain and views of the valley below were spectacular. Spiraling several thousand feet down and around the mountain, we descended past agricultural terraces, religious sites, common dwellings, baths, huge storehouses, etc. until we reached the Pisac market. Pisac has a excellent market on Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, and we weren't disappointed. After a group lunch that seemed to take ages to arrive, many in our group did some of their Christmas shopping there. It was a pleasant town and we've decided to spend at least one night there when we return to Peru in 1999.

By this time Mike and Jim L. were both feeling better but Susan L. was now under the weather. After a delicious dinner at El Cuate Mexican restaurant, Susan G. packed the food for the backpack while many of the group gathered in the closed cafe of the hostal to join in a rousing game of hearts. There was a Peru-Paraguay World Cup soccer game on TV, which everyone in Peru was watching. When Peru eventually won the cheering and fireworks went on for hours. We distributed the commissary that evening and people retired early to pack their packs and get any excess baggage ready to leave with reception. We were all a bit nervous. The Inca Trail and train to Machu Picchu had been closed for several days because of a fire raging close to the site. The rumors that it was almost under control sounded promising and we were keeping our fingers crossed.

Rabbit picked us up early the next morning and went to work tying packs on the roof for transport to Ollantaytambo. Bob and Susan G. tossed their daypacks onto the back seat of the van and while distracted loading, almost experienced a major loss. A man walked by and had his hand in the open door and on Susan's pack, which contained a lot of cash. When she glanced up and caught his eye, he quickly removed his hand and continued down the street. It served as a good wake up call and we all started to be a little more careful. Peru is a poor country of good people. Sometimes the temptation of our relative wealth is more than they can resist.

The ride to Ollantaytambo, with a brief stop at the Inca site of Chinchero, was uneventful. Rabbit delivered us to El Albergue, where we had reserved the entire hostal for our group. Situated on the train tracks, the hostal features a lovely inner courtyard filled with flowering plants, an Avocado tree, six rooms with three shared bathrooms, two well fed golden labs, friendly English speaking help, and to Susan's great delight, a sauna. Upon our arrival, Adela informed us that the Inca Trail had just been reopened. After lunching in the courtyard, we toured the immense ruin site and paid a visit to the local museum. Our entertaining 9 year old guide, Carlos, exhibited tremendous patience in his Spanish language explanations and we usually figured out what it was he wanted us to know. While waiting for everyone to show up at the museum, we walked around the back streets and realized that the village was a living history museum actually built on the Inca site. Irrigation canals, gangplanks, arched doorways, and interior courtyards were obviously original Inca stonework. Back at the hostal, Adela had made good on her promise to heat up the sauna. About half of the group enjoyed the steam bath in shifts before dinner. Tina cooked up a delicious evening meal and we retired early to rest up for the upcoming backpack.

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Pisac Market

Local Fire Department

Porter Cleanup

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