Puyupatamarca was an impressive site with a series of Inca baths stretching down the hillside. One bath along the trail turned out to be the best water source for the camp above. The porters had ingeniously arranged what looked like a rubber plant leaf with two rocks anchoring it to make a spout. They generously moved aside from their laundry chores to allow us access to the water above them. While the guides appeared aloof, the porters were always friendly along the trail. We shared our excess food with them and they were quick to give us a smile and advice. Most of them were barefoot or wearing homemade sandals and many of them had deep cracks in their feet. We were told at the Puyupatamarca camp that our boots were in danger of being stolen, so we tied them to our packs under the vestibule at night. After a last good look around this site, we headed downhill in the rain for our last camp.
We had limited visibility on this downhill march. We stopped in for a quick look at the museum above our campsite while some in our party enjoyed their first beer in several days. Eventually, we reached camp and were greeted by a continuous afternoon rainstorm. The Huiñay Huayna site, which is being reconstructed, was quite lovely in the afternoon as it came in and out of the fog. Begonias and orchids growing in the walls, made it the favorite of several members of our group. The rain cleared during dinner and we were finally able to see the snow capped peaks we had known were surrounding the valley. Carl was feeling back to normal but Dave joined the Inca Revenge list this last night and it seemed that only Bob and Ron would escape unscathed. We all turned in pretty early, wanting to get an early start for Intipunku, the Inca Sun Gate.
We need not have worried about oversleeping; the roosters started crowing at 3:30 AM. We made a quick hot breakfast, packed up, and were off in search of adventure. The trail from Huiñay Huayna to Machu Picchu stretched over two miles of Inca stonework with a few wooden bridges spanning missing sections over sheer drops. It was bordered by lush vegetation and flowers associated with the ever closer Amazon. Our first really clear trail day provided expansive views of the snow-capped peaks above and the river below us, followed by spectacular views of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate. We immediately noticed obvious charred areas where the fire had lapped the outlying edges of the site just a week earlier. We worked our way down to the hotel and entrance, checked our packs for safekeeping and re-entered the ruin site.
The site is relatively uncrowded until 10:30 when the first busloads of tourists arrive from the early train. After half a day wandering in the site, we caught the bus down to Aguas Calientes. The bus was a white knuckler for a few of our group, as it switched back and forth down several thousand feet to the river bed below. With Carl as the enforcer, Susan waited in line for an hour and a half to get tickets on the Inca Class tourist train. Others took turns watching the group's packs, playing cards, and shopping in Aguas Calientes. The views as we returned along the Urubamba river were quite pretty but unfortunately much of our train ride took place after dark. Several games of hearts and gin rummy broke out. Having been warned to watch each other's backs around the market, we were all a little paranoid when we arrived at the Cuzco train station. In single file, our silent horde marched for several blocks to our hotel without incident. After a much needed shower, most of the group went out for dinner at the Bagdad Cafe in the Plaza de Armas. It was late enough that they finally got balcony seating in this popular restaurant.
Aguas Calentes
Civilization at Last
Stone Baptismal?
