December '99 Newsletter

It’s been a record-breaking, warm autumn in Phoenix but the temperatures are finally dipping down and we’re enjoying the cooler weather. It will soon be time to split wood for the fireplace. We’ve been keeping busy this fall catching up on overdue apartment maintenance. We recently replaced the water line from the meter to our complex. A job that could have been a nightmare but went relatively smoothly all things considered. After finishing that, we had to recondition the plumbing fixtures in all of the apartments. Someone once said plumbing is the art of controlled leakage. Leakage is a little more controlled at the Marleys’ now.

Temperatures are more suitable for gluing and we have frame and rubber boat repairs to complete. Even in a good year there is usually some damage to our equipment. Bob recently decided to downsize to the 16-foot boat and Susan will be downsizing to the 14.5-foot self-bailer. We plan to have an oar frame made for it over the winter. So the Avon is up for sale. If you know of anyone who is interested in a Grand Canyon cargo hauler, have them contact us. We’re only asking $600.00 for the rubber, frame, floors, and gay bag. We’re keeping the oars for the Tomato. Actually if one had a Grand Canyon trip planned and needed a large raft, one could buy this Avon for less than a Flagstaff rental for 16-18 days.

Bob’s kids, our granddaughter, and a couple of granddogs were in town for Thanksgiving. They had dinner with their mom this year but came over for dessert with us. Susan roasted a bird, mainly to have leftovers. We hiked to the top of Black Cross Butte in the Superstitions that weekend with Ken, Peter, Cherie, and a few others. Susan’s Parks & Recreation hikes have been going well, as usual. We scouted a few new ones around Mt. Graham, Oak Flats, and Mt. Wrightson this fall. We particularly enjoying spending the night at Essence of Tranquility hot springs after the Mt. Graham hike. Susan is planning an overnight there with her group next fall.

We’re already looking at our 2001 trip schedule and have added Patagonia to our must-do list. We’re organizing a group trip there in December of 2000. It will be early summer in the Southern Hemisphere and a great place for some of you who live in snow country to escape the winter. See the supplement in this newsletter for additional information. We’re also planning a return to complete the Annapurna Circuit by ourselves most likely in March of 2001. We plan to be in Nepal for 6-8 weeks and will hike as close to the Everest basecamp as we can handle. There is also a great trek-in raft trip in western Nepal we would like to explore.

Block Watch projects and meetings have been keeping Susan occupied. We’re happy to report that the neighborhood is fairly quiet again. The bad news is that it is hard to get neighbors involved when there is no big nasty going on. Bob has been playing with his new computer toys. He recently purchased a flat bed scanner and a faster one-pass slide/negative scanner. Now all we’re lacking is a high quality color printer and photo paper to print our own pictures.

'99 Trip Reports:

Buckskin Gulch and Paria Canyon Backpack, Arizona (10/2/99-10/9/99):

We hit the road shortly after lunch and were delighted with the Flagstaff temperatures especially since our truck’s air conditioning fan had quit working the previous day. We reached the Lees Ferry Campground by late afternoon and drove to the river to see who was launching a Grand Canyon raft trip. CJ pulled in around dusk and we talked for a little while before retiring.

The fishermen were up at 4:30 AM but we went back to sleep after they pulled out. The three of us took CJ’s rental car and were off in search of sustenance and condors. Unfortunately, breakfast was located more easily than condors. Although they were being sighted around Cliff Dwellers, we didn’t spot any as we ate a scrumptious breakfast on their patio. CJ had never been to this area before so we walked over the old Navajo Bridge and around the Lonely Dell in the morning. Jim Laskowski arrived shortly after lunch and the four of us attempted to find the Spencer Trail, our planned objective for that afternoon’s hike. It was not to be. Although Bob had been up the trail a number of times, the start was now elusive and we floundered around in the heat for quite awhile before giving it up in favor of a dip in the frigid Colorado.

The rest of the group of nine arrived by late afternoon. We held off cooking our Mexican dinner until the infamous Lees Ferry Campground wind had died down to some degree. While waiting, our camp host arrived to share a glass of wine and read a few short poetry selections from his book. Short one person due to a last minute family emergency, we had more than enough food but we gave the task of finishing the pies our best effort. The next morning one of the angler campers was up over an hour before dawn pounding tent stakes and cooking breakfast. We might have forgiven him had he not still been hanging out drinking coffee when it got light. After a quick breakfast, we parked our four extra cars in the long term parking area and left for the trailhead.

The new Paria Ranger Station was a nice surprise. We hadn’t visited there in a few years and were glad to see that recently instituted permit and camping fees are being put to good use. On a sadder note, we found a memorial plaque for former Paria Ranger Rod Schipper. On past trips and by phone, we’d picked his brain for local information numerous times. We really liked him. We were not aware that he had died in a backcountry vehicle accident a few years ago. We checked in with the ranger on duty, who gave us a forecast of clear weather for at least five days. More than enough time to get us through Buckskin Gulch.

The road to Wirepass Trailhead was quite good and we arrived to find both backcountry rangers working there. One ranger informed us that the dreaded "Cesspool" had been chest-deep a week prior to our arrival and asked us to leave a report at the end of our adventure regarding water levels and any hazards. The other ranger told us that though she considered herself a fair climber, she wouldn’t want to carry her pack up the ledge at the Middle Trail. Filled with boundless optimism after hearing all this, our intrepid group of explorers set out. We hiked for at least a few hours with dry feet. It wasn’t until after the Buckskin Confluence that we hit unavoidable pools. We switched over to our wet shoes and continued on, switching to dry shoes once before the pools again became too frequent. After a few thigh-deep pools, we arrived at the Cesspool, a real stinker of waist-deep floating debris. Our deepest pool, chest-deep on some, was followed by a series of long, thigh-deep slick ones before we reached the Middle Trail. Carl graciously ferried Susan and Sandy’s packs over his head at two different deep, nasty spots. There are some advantages to being the only women on a trip. Chivalry is not dead.

Evening shadows were lengthening as we struggled up the ledge to camp. A few of us got our packs up the ledge by ourselves but most were hauled at least some portion of the route. We then hauled daypacks of water up to start cooking. It had been a long and challenging day. After happy hour, we treated ourselves to an Ibuprofen appetizer, which was followed by dinner. We all turned in early for the first of several 12-hour nights. We had so many, it is amazing that no one developed bedsores.

With revitalized leg muscles, getting down off of the ledge didn’t seem quite as difficult, though some of the footing was made slick by a covering of fine sand on slick sandstone. We walked dry for the first hour or so, before the canyon narrowed and deep pools again appeared. Fortunately, there were none over thigh-deep and the rock fall drop was straight forward. Someone had left a nice new hand line at the carved steps and after lowering one’s pack, it was possible to climb down there or scoot through a hole under the rocks. We lunched around the corner when everyone was through the rock fall and continued at a leisurely pace to the Paria. We encountered only one solo hiker before we reached the Confluence. There we met another two groups of two each. We had expected to run into at least one other large group since the 20-person allotment was full for several days surrounding our trip but it was not to be. Carl dropped his pack and explored the Paria upstream for a ways while the rest of us slogged on in search of a large camp with a good spring.

Carl discovered our first Midget Faded Rattlesnake while looking for a good spot to pitch his tent; he quickly chose another spot. After dinner, the satellite count began. Three stars dubbed Curly, Moe, and Larry provided a frame of reference for spotting. An unnamed member of our group was heard to ponder whether people watched satellites for entertainment before everyone had television. With the help of Kelsey’s book, we found a number of petroglyphs throughout the Paria. The panel at Judd Hollow was as elaborate as we remembered. We camped just below Judd and rigged up a shower in some cottonwood trees to get rid of our Buckskin grunge. Some of the guys had taken advantage of a deep pool in the Paria to clean up earlier in the day. However, without soap it wasn’t quite the same. With easier walking, we all had more energy to spare and the afternoon Hearts games began.

We followed up our three-mile walk to our next camp with a hike up to Wrather Arch. Along the way, we ran into two more guys backpacking down from White House Trailhead. We lunched and took a short nap before attempting to hike out to the rim on the opposite side of the Canyon. Carl, Doug, and Bob Marley made it all of the way out. Bob Inman turned back at one obstacle and Susan was stopped at a crux near the top. Sandy and Ernie tried the route on the camp side of the Canyon but didn’t have enough time to break out on top. We all found a good petroglyph panel on one side of the Canyon but not the one reportedly located on the other. Ah well, a reason to go back, as if one is ever needed.

A few clouds had rolled in and the wind had picked up during our afternoon hikes but only a few drops of rain fell after dinner. The wind gusted for quite a long while but by morning it was again clear and still. Doug had a ringtail cat in the cottonwood above his camp that night but fortunately it didn’t come down to bother any of our food. The spring at our Bush Head Camp was a little tougher to find than some of the others had been. While in camp, a group of eight hikers from Tucson and the Bay area stopped in to chat. A few of our group hiked up Bush Head a ways and Carl went back up to explore more the next morning. The Hearts games continued.

On our way down to the last night’s camp at Wilson Ranch, we located more of the boulder petroglyphs mentioned by Kelsey. Some were quite elaborate and unusual. We reached camp early. While some were cleaning up or napping, Susan scared up another rattlesnake in our kitchen area. Making its way down to the river, it became extremely agitated by our presence. It continued to rattle long after disappearing from sight into the bushes. It was a lazy afternoon spent dipping in the shallow pools, exploring the old ranch site, and playing cards. Only 4 miles from Lonely Dell, we could have walked out then but several people had sore feet or knees and there was no point in getting out a day early.

Up early, we made the hike out with dry feet for the most part. We stopped briefly for a look at the historic Lonely Dell Cemetery and old ranch site. The pears in the orchard were delicious. All of our cars started up without a hitch and the drivers returned to the gate to pick up packs and people for the return ride to Wirepass to collect our other vehicles. Jim went south to hike around Sedona, while the rest of us went north and had our traditional unbeatable bean salad lunch together before heading our separate directions.

Bob and Susan continued south on the gravel road that connects with 89A west of Cliff Dwellers Lodge. Shortly after reaching the pavement, they spotted two condors soaring high over the highway. They resembled small, dark, fixed-wing aircraft. With an adult wingspan of nine feet, they are some of the largest birds we’ve ever seen! We reached Phoenix by late afternoon. It took a several hours to remove the dirt from the back of the truck and much of another day to clean and store the rest of our clothes and gear. Another great trip in one of our favorite canyons!

Participants:

Susan Groth, Ernie Hildner, Sandy Hildner, Bob Inman, Craig Johnston, Jim Laskowski, Bob Marley, Doug Marx, Carl Muller.

2000 Whitewater Rafting Trips:

Since private raft trips require a permit from the appropriate regulatory agency, the next couple of months are a critical time for river rafters. Everyone who is interested in non-commercial rafting next year needs to prepare and timely mail their applications so they will be included in the launch date lottery for the rivers of their choice. Most of these agencies do not accept applications after mid-January. Since you travel with us regularly, you probably realize by now that we have no special access to private rafting permits. Unless we obtain, or know someone who obtains, a permit, it isn't possible to organize a group trip. In that event, we’ll be boating by ourselves on a last minute cancellation permit or joining someone else's group.

We postpone all raft trip organization until the end of February or early March, when the results of the lottery draws are known. Since only a handful of us have suitable rafts and organizational experience to carry out these trips, the most important thing other participants can do is make every effort to draw a launch date. Whoever has the permit will always be on the river and they’ll also have lots of friends to help them put their trip together. If you help with the permit process, you will receive a letter announcing who was successful, what launch dates were drawn, and how the trip is being organized. To make sure your name is on that first-contact list, send us a copy of any permit applications you submit. This approach should give everyone 3-4 months lead time for planning summer vacations.

Free Time for Rafting in 2000
Best Launch Date	Suggested Rivers
May 28-June 3 (Backup is the Dolores River, which doesn’t always have adequate flows more than a week after the Memorial Day weekend)	San Juan (Bluff to Clay Hills) BLM, San Juan Permits PO Box 7, Monticello, UT 84535 (435) 587-1544 Dolores River (Bradfield to Slickrock) No permit required.
June 25-July 3 (Backup is the Green River through Desolation and Gray canyons or the Yampa River. Permits required on both rivers)	Middle Fork Ranger District PO Box 750, Challis ID 83226 (208) 879-4112 Desolation Canyon Permit Info Price Field Office, 125 South, 600 West Price, UT 84501 (435) 636-3622 River Permits and Info Dinosaur National Monument, 4545 Hwy. 40 Dinosaur, CO 81610 (970) 374-2468

We encourage those who are interested in rafting next summer to submit applications (mid-week launch dates seem to have the best chance of being drawn). The costs are minimal ($5.00-$15.00 per application). The address, phone number, and application acceptance date of each regulating agency for most western rivers is listed on the enclosed permits page. On any trip we organize the permit holder is obviously the first choice to go, then whoever they wish to accompany them, then people with gear and necessary experience, then those who helped from the start by applying for permits, and lastly, those expressing interest after the permit process is completed.

We haven't included Cataract Canyon in our plans because permits are readily available there and the application fee is pretty stiff. The only acceptable time for us to do that trip would be a launch date after the annual flood season of June, probably in July or August. Cataract is a fun trip but we don't intend to seek a permit there unless a number of you signify interest. We applying for a Salt River permit the last week in March and the first week in April, but it has been very dry this year and there may not be a season again. If you are interested, contact us for more information. As we’ve said before, we don’t plan to organize a group Grand Canyon raft trip next year.

Private, non-commercial rafting is about people taking responsibility for their trip and making it happen. After reading this thoroughly, if you want to join us next year, get the ball rolling by sending for permit application forms, completing them, and sending us copies. We hope that many of us will be successful in the river permit lotteries and that we will see you on one or more raft trips. If you are lucky enough to draw a permit, let us know immediately.

General Trip Information:

We must receive your deposit and a completed Q/AR form, for you to be considered for inclusion on one of our trips. If you plan to join one of our future trips and you haven’t done this yet, do it now. If a trip is popular enough to require a waitlist, we will use five criteria to determine who is on it. Initial preference will be given to those who have a current mailing application on file, have paid any required trip deposit, and have promptly returned the necessary Q/AR. If this isn't sufficient, we then compare trip deposit dates and lastly Q/AR postmark dates.

We continue to send information to our travel friends using email. If you want to be the first to know what's going on, send us your email address. We'll also continue to communicate unique travel opportunities by ‘special mailings’ to those who travel with us frequently and who have a mailing application on file.

Best of luck in your Y2K adventures, whatever they are, and wherever they may be. We hope you can join a trip next year so we can again spend some time traveling with you.

	Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Bob & Susan

Updated on Thursday, December 8, 2006 @ 4:30 MST © 1995-2006 by Robert R. Marley