June '10 Newsletter

April is normally a busy month in Black Canyon City and this year was no exception. Susan decided fairly late to perform in the Lion's Club 25th Annual White Cane Parade. The small turnout of local clowns was augmented by five from Sun City's Red Hot Clown Alley. Shenanigans were entertaining enough to bring home the second place trophy in the performing category. The Red Hot Clown Alley has first shot at the prize but it may eventually return to BCC and take up residence with some of the newer clowns. Our kitchen mantel sports 6 trophies from previous parades, so we're trying to pass new ones along. Just in case the kids didn't get a belly full of candy at the parade, they were given another opportunity the following morning at High Desert's annual Easter Egg Hunt. The Easter Bunny had the little kids starry eyed, the pre-teens were a bit rough, and as usual, the parents were a royal pain in the rear. Our local paper published Susan's egg hunt article along with a couple of Bob's photos.

With all of the rain we received in January, the wildflower season was long and truly spectacular. The variety was the best we've seen and carpeted fields took the place of our usual sparse smattering. Wildflower season was followed by a long duration cactus bloom that is still going on. The cacti in our cactus garden took turns and some that haven't bloomed before amazed us with unique, fragile blossoms that usually lasted less than 24 hours.

Susan's cousin came from California for lunch and a visit. Her parents were Susan's God parents, so they've kept in touch over the years. This time Lorraine was accompanied by her son Paul, his wife Debbie, and Lorraine's daughter Debbie. Paul and Debbie live in Waddell, a western suburb of Phoenix. The other Debbie lives in northern California. This was the first time that we have met either Debbie. It was a nice long visit and we poured over myriad pictures of shared great grandparents.

After years of saving information about canoeing Topock Gorge, we finally braved it in our sea kayaks, trip description in this letter. We had hoped to slide in a spring sea kayaking trip above Lees Ferry but had enough chilly spells to put that off for another year. We took advantage of the cooler temperatures to explore an area north of us in a day-long bushwack that left no exposed skin unscathed. The mountains surrounding us are littered with interesting old mine sites and cowboy camps to visit. A May hike is usually out of the question but with only three days over 100 degrees that month our weather was cool enough to allow one and running streams replaced the normally dry creek beds.

Salt River Canyon was the site of Bob's 70th birthday celebration. Scott, Tennille, and our grand dog Hudson drove down from Albuquerque to meet us there for a fun day of rafting. Hudson, nearly invisible in his stylish camo life vest, enjoyed paddle rafting but eventually went to sleep with his head on Tennille's knee. We camped for two nights, one with the kids. Susan had baked Bob's favorite German chocolate cake but also indulged him by picking up a big pie. Mid-Sunday morning, we said our goodbyes and headed south, while the kids headed north to take Tennille's mom out for a Mothers' Day dinner. It was a fun weekend and a nice birthday.

Susan's 86 year-old dad had a pacemaker installed in late May. He got to a point of being winded even when tying his shoes, which was not conducive to being as active as he has always been and wanted to be. We are happy to report that he is doing very well and is thrilled to be able to resume normal activities.

Preparing to leave for the entire month of June took the last couple of weeks of May. Our plan was to initially visit Ronica and John in Hailey for a few days, join friends on their Middle Fork trip, continue down the Main Salmon by ourselves after they left at Cache Bar, loop around through Boise back to Ronica and John's, pick up the balance of our gear and meet friends and family for a second run down the Main. This became further complicated when we decided to leave our river gear with friends in Washington, store our truck in Spokane, fly home from there for the month of July, and fly back in August to continue to a sea kayaking trip in Canada. Susan forgot relatively few things but the truck and trailer were loaded to the gills when we left for Idaho, looking like Okies from the movie the Grapes of Wrath.

Our journey north was uneventful. Except for gas stops, we drove straight through to a rest area just short of Twin Falls where we crawled into a tight space in the back of the camper shell to catch a few hours of sleep. We did a bit of shopping in Twin before continuing north to Hailey. Ronica's birthday matches early Salmon raft trip dates, so we have been lucky to celebrate this special event with her more than once over the past years. Their son Alex was home for the summer after his first year of college but they have a big house with plenty of room for company. Since our last visit a large storage garage had been added, which turned out to be a perfect place to store our trailer loaded with extra gear needed for the group trips.

Their old dog Opal is slowing down, so they are currently bird training a pup that is full of energy. Add her playful disposition to that of four cats and a good time is usually had by all. Susan became especially attached to their big cat "Jumper" who can open the French doors from the outside when he wants to come in. She spent hours with this "Big Puddy" on her lap. The Idaho wildflowers were just starting to emerge when we took a number of walks in the foothills near their home. We were the beneficiaries of some wonderful meals not to mention a bag of delicious home smoked jerky made by John the quintessential grill master. Not to be outdone, Ronica sent us off to the put-in with a big bag of home made monster cookies. Between our solo trip and the group trip, we returned to their home for another couple of days visit and to pick up the rest of the gear. The flowers were in full bloom by the time we returned and the weather was much warmer.

After leaving the group at Spring Bar in early July, we drove northwest to Moses Lake, Washington where our friends Lou and Debbie now reside. Lou was off hiking with their youngest son Tyler but Debbie and middle son Casey were home to welcome us. We spent the evening with them, visiting, feasting on tamales, and watching an action movie. They were gracious hosts and we especially enjoyed taking a hot shower and sleeping in a real bed. We left our trailer full of river gear parked in their garage and ventured north, our ultimate destination being Spokane. Since it was the 4th of July, tourist areas were jam packed, campgrounds were full, and traffic was bearly manageable. Casey had recommended a stop at Dry Falls and that turned out to be quite interesting. Bob had hoped to tour the power plant at Grand Coulee Dam but it was quite busy and he wouldn't wait two hours for the privilege. We ended up in Spokane a bit ahead of schedule and spent two evenings at the movies. We were especially enamored with Spokane's downtown river walk area.

Our June newsletter became a July publication when we didn't return home from our Idaho adventures until July 7th. We'd like to say it's good to be home but quite frankly, the heat is kicking our butts. Hiking or biking even in the early morning is a trial. We're already looking forward to escaping to Canada.

2010 Trip Reports:

Topock Gorge Kayak (4/6/10 - 4/11/10):

Located near Lake Havasu City on Arizona's border with California, Topock Gorge is an area we had always wanted to visit. Years ago our friends Charlotte and Char canoed the Gorge and reported back to us that it might better be visited mid-week when motor traffic is lower.

We loaded our sea kayaks onto the roof of the topper the night before and had our camping gear ready to go. Finishing an afternoon appointment in Phoenix slightly before rush hour, we braved the I-10 freeway heading west towards Los Angeles. Eventually, we left the freeway behind taking secondary roads through Parker to a quiet, county park campground along the river on the north side of town, where we spent a pleasant, bug-free evening.

The next morning we continued on to Lake Havasu City, where we stopped at the visitor center and took a quick look at the infamous London Bridge. With a bit of information in hand we located the Castle Rock take-out on the north end of town and drove up to locate the put-in. We secured a campsite at Moabi Regional Park on the California side of the river and circulated through the campground looking for shuttle possibilities. It was windy the day we arrived and several scout troops were camped in the same park waiting for a more tranquil day to canoe through Topock. We quickly realized that throwing money at a commercial shuttle would assure us the most freedom to enjoy our day as we wished, so we called Jerkwater Canoe and made arrangements with Dave to pick us up at Castle Rock the following afternoon.

We were unaware that it was spring break for many California schools and during the night, a large group of campers arrived and surrounded us. They were quiet and we were marginally aware of their existence until we got up for breakfast. After a couple of cups of java, Susan was ready to paddle and we were on our way. Since it was our first time on the water this season, we were probably over-prepared with wetsuits and emergency gear, but we could have spent the night had the need arisen. Our sea kayaks glide slickly through the water even when heavily loaded or into the wind. Fortunately for us, the wind had died down and what little we had pushed us downstream. One set of boy scouts had left camp ahead of us and we overtook the slower members of their group fairly quickly. There were a few pontoon boats out fishing but very few motor boats or jet skis until about 11 AM. Many years ago our good friend Charlotte thought canoeing there was "like riding a bike in the Indianapolis 500" and we would have to agree. Huge cigarette boats can be a bit intimidating when viewed from a sea kayak.

The scouts landed on river left to investigate a large petroglyph display and do some cliff jumping. We joined them to see the petroglyphs but passed on the cliff jumping. While squeezed between their canoes on the narrow landing shelf, the fast boat traffic increased even more and what some might consider too close passes came close to swamping Bob's parked kayak. We had to dump his cockpit quickly, hold up the kayak for two foot wave crests, and then time a launch between boat passes.

Lunch time arrived and we found a secluded estuary to escape the crowds and the wakes. Many of these are signed and closed to motorized access. We never saw the bighorn sheep or the burros that others saw that day but we found evidence of current burro habitation on our little secluded beach. Wildflowers had been abundant along the road cuts and this particular stop featured a field of Ajo Lilies that aren't something we see in our higher desert. We were surprised that we didn't see more birdlife but perhaps some had already flown north for the summer. In addition to many garrulous grackles there was a nesting pair of Canadian Geese at our camp and we saw lots of coots and ducks in the Gorge. In our opinion, the Gorge was mediocre canyon country but we've been spoiled by our many canoe trips through Canyonlands and truly spectacular backpack trips through the narrow gorges of Utah and Arizona.

Dave from Jerkwater was on time picking us up, arriving within minutes of our toting the kayaks to the parking area, a short walk from the landing. He and Bob loaded them up while we waited a few minutes for another couple to join us. After dropping them at the marina, we unloaded our gear at our campsite. At this point most of the rest of a group of Seventh Day Adventists and two more scout troops had arrived, making it REALLY crowded. Unwilling to look for another spot this late in the day, we elected to spend the night and were pleasantly surprised by how quiet it was.

After a leisurely breakfast, we visited Needles to air up a low tire and pick up a few groceries. We camped that night at a private camp, Five Mile Landing, so we could easily access Topock Marsh in Havasu National Wildlife Refuge. Though there were no motor boats or jet skis buzzing around we still didn't see any wildlife or much birdlife on our 2 hour paddle around the slough. One white pelican, a few mergansers and the ubiquitous coots graced our path. There were numerous noisy grackles in the trees shading our campsite. While Bob was distracted one helped himself to his unguarded apple fritter.

We next planned to boat for a few days from Willow Springs up to the base of the Hoover Dam but weather reports were not favorable in terms of wind, so we decided to save that for another time and left for home. For a change of scenery we drove to Kingman, Arizona, on historic Route 66, passing through the artsy tourist trap of Oatman.

Participants: Bob & Susan Marley

Main Salmon Solo Rafting (6/12/10 - 6/19/10):

We intended to run the Middle Fork with friends and continue on down the Main Salmon by ourselves, starting the latter about June 14. When the Middle Fork trip collapsed because of flood flows and we were unwilling to go solo or with a group of unknowns, we were left with an extreme flood flow trip as the only option. We abandoned our Boundary Creek campsite, set up a vehicle shuttle with River Shuttles in Salmon, and killed a few days playing tourist around both Salmon and North Fork. Between museums, movies, and the library we managed to keep ourselves entertained. One highlight was our stay at the recently remodeled Wagonhammer RV Park on the banks of the Salmon. The Canadian owners come from the area where Bob grew up and spend their winters in Lake Havasu City. Their park is one of the nicest, cleanest, friendliest we've had occasion to visit. Driving the gravel road from North Fork to Corn Creek we watched the rapids, especially noting an extremely active bridge to bridge section when the road crossed to the opposite side of the river for a bit. The Corn Creek Ranger offered us the opportunity to launch a few days early since it was open season and no one was scheduled. An off-season permit would allow us up to 9 nights and 10 days on the river.

After a leisurely night in the campground, we took our time rigging the next morning. By mid afternoon Bob was growing impatient and stuff got slammed into whatever space was left. The Ranger checked us out, accepting a rocket box in lieu of a fire pan, since there were only two of us and we didn't plan to have any fires except in an emergency situation. At 2:30 PM we finally climbed on the load and started downriver. While 25,000 cfs is a lot of water, there are usually escape routes along the banks to avoid the really huge waves. A bit intimidated by the big water, we gave it up 3 miles downriver at Horse Camp. The riverside part of this site was much smaller than the one we camped on a few years ago. There were still many flat spots up in the trees but being lazy we left everything at the raft and went hiking in search of the Legend Creek petroglyphs. It was a great hike on the riverside pack trail, but we stopped a bit short and didn't quite get there. Along the way we passed Stub Creek Rapid, the site of Susan's first flip. That was many years ago at 45,000 cfs flows but the rapid was still pretty big at the flow levels we experienced, with a huge lateral coming off the left bank. Our new guidebook portrays this rapid as dangerous at extreme water levels. When she flipped, there were huge laterals off both walls leading to a gigantic V-wave at the bottom.

The next morning we enjoyed a leisurely big breakfast of eggs in bagel holes, letting the day warm up before donning our wet suits and paddle jackets. The plan was to go to Lantz Bar if we successfully ran Susan's rapid, checking out the missed petroglyphs along the way. We ran the rapid cleanly but it was big enough that we struggled to reach the right bank and didn't find a convenient place to walk back to the petroglyphs. Continuing to Lower Lantz Bar, we stopped on a nice sandy beach and walked up to the cabins to monitor the Bing cherry ripeness. We scared up two deer, one a buck in full velvet and the other a limping doe. Back at the beach by 1:00 PM, we elected to continue downstream to Corey Bar. High water on the Main Salmon always makes knowing where you are difficult and decreases the chances of getting where you want to be. We missed Corey Bar and couldn't find anything below it with a nice sandy pull-in. Before we knew it we flew by a couple of outfitter camps and ran Salmon Falls. It was flooded out so that wasn't a big deal but floating downriver at 6-7 miles per hour, we whizzed right by the developed Barth Hot Tub. Eventually our luck turned and we found the wonderful huge sandy beach of Bruin Camp. We hung out there the rest of the day, much of which was spent watching our resident deer. She was pretty tame and circled us several times checking out our ropes, raft, lifevests, while keeping a watchful eye on us. When we realized we had her for a pet Susan named it Tootsie and Bob started taking pictures.

After running Hancock Rapid the next morning, we had a lot of quiet running downstream. The first section had few campsites and no sandy beaches at high water. Eventually we passed the excellent but heavily overused Magpie Creek campsite. The crux of our day was to be four rapids in a row below Allison Ranch: Sapp, Five-mile, Split Rock, and Little Stinker. All of them were tight and had huge waves. At times Bob felt he was rowing for our lives. Fortunately, we hit everything squarely and a slightly out of breath Bob relaxed when we cleared the last one. From there it was a leisurely float down to Lower Yellow Pine, just above Big Mallard Rapid. This campsite was excellent and a good trail existed to walk down to scout the rapid. While near Mallard Camp Susan took her second tumble of the day. She'd lightly sprained her wrist while retrieving the front rope in the morning. Then hiking she stepped on a log and the bark peeled off triggering a face plant and roll onto her back. When we returned to camp a group of four boats had landed at Upper Yellow Pine. The big treat of the day was to watch Heinz Sipple power by with his jet boat. After three days of clear skies, a massive black cloud arrived from the west, bringing rain showers, thunder, and lightning.

It was overcast the next morning, so we lounged in the tent until 9:00 AM. After breakfast Bob went over to talk to the upstream group. All seven of these guys were from Boise and we found we had SLC friends in common, JJ & Teena Suprise. Though reaching the left bank for the Big Mallard left run looked difficult from camp, we were pleasantly surprised to be able to power across and run with absolutely no problems. A mile or so before Elkhorn we came across two river rafts parked on shore. Both were upright, seemed in good condition and were several feet up a steep beach. We later learned the owners walked out after floating on even higher flood flows and intended to retrieve their rafts later. The scout for Elkhorn Rapid displayed the biggest number and widest variety of wildflowers blooming that we saw anywhere on the Main. At water levels above 5', there is a monstrous hole created by a huge rock in the middle of the river. Bank laterals tend to drift rafts right to it. Our scout revealed that the best run was a far right bypass. We started down the middle to miss a nasty wave on the right bank. Then Bob pulled as hard as he could to the right bank but we continued to drift towards the middle and we couldn't maintain the angle we wanted. Not wanting to affirm our guidebook's assertion that the hole could flip a 16' raft end for end, Susan grabbed a paddle and started back paddling as hard as she could in the front of the raft to help keep the rear pointed to shore. Fortunately we were able to force it right enough to clear the hole and then let our raft drift back into the middle of the river where huge tail waves stood the raft almost on end as we crested one after another.

Breathing a sigh of relief we continued downriver to our camp just below the pack bridge, where a beautiful sandy beach awaited. The morning had been overcast and early afternoon brought light showers. We hiked to the Jim Moore homestead in rain gear. The slopes were covered with wildflowers: Pacific Trillium, Blue Penstemon, Honeysuckle, Lady Slipper, Lupine, Blue Violet, and even a small patch of domestic Irises. A huge, grassy, thigh-deep meadow surrounded the cabins. We walked some of the pack trail past this National Historic site and then across the pack bridge scaring up a deer on the far side. The sun broke through occasionally as the day wore on but at times it looked pretty ominous.

It sprinkled much of the night but was dry under the trees on our beach. The morning sky was heavily overcast and the river had risen a few inches. Everything was wet and it took some time to get packed up and ready to go. We were a bit nervous about Whiplash Rapid that awaited us around a couple of bends in the river. When we pulled out to leave two rafts of folks from Montana overtook us. They agreed to let us tag along through Whiplash, which can become a monster above 7' on the gauge but turned out of be easy around 5'. We continued down long, straight, fast moving aisles of the river and all arrived at Buckskin Bills about the same time. Heinz Sipple met us at the entry gate after we landed our rafts at a huge new sandy beach. We checked out Buckskin Bill's rock castle, took some pictures, and talked to Heinz and Barbara about our upstream jet boat ride that was scheduled in a little over a week.

In a couple of weeks their company Whitewater Expeditions would shuttle our entire group from Spring Bar to the Corn Creek put-in. Heinz also took us through the museum and told us some of the Buckskin Bill history. Apparently a 1974 flood filled the bench a couple of feet deep when the river peaked at 135,000 cfs. Heinz and Barbara seem to be tough folks who enjoy their isolation (they initially came from Germany to Salmon River country 20 years or so ago and spent their first winter in a teepee at the mouth of one of the many tributaries). The day remained overcast and was getting progressively colder; their large outdoor thermometer read 54 degrees. We left after eating lunch at one of their picnic tables, just as a rainsquall started. Immediately borderline hypothermic, we rounded the next bend in the river thinking campsite. Fortunately Haynie Bar on river left had young pines spaced perfectly for setting up a tarp over our table and chairs. As the evening wore on the temperature plunged. Wearing all the warm clothing he brought, Bob finally gave it up and retired to the tent for 12 hours of deliciously warm sleep.

More rain throughout the night! The morning was pretty cold but with a few spots of blue sky showing we were initially optimistic. When it still hadn't cleared by 1:00 PM, we declared a layover day. The numbers of people on the river were increasing and three groups passed during the day. A late afternoon walk upstream on a game trail to a rougher river camp, afforded us views of the Sipple place and one of their boats. Bob's hope was to find Buckskin Bill's elevated walkway on a riverside cliff face but we lost heart and gave up the effort. Both of us were a bit freaked by some large, bear-like scat we found and a couple of sturdy leg bones with a bit of meat still on them. We'd committed to staying a second night but findings like that occasionally make one wonder. Later in the afternoon it started to clear and the sun actually came out. We were able to peel off the layers of coats and raincoats for a couple of hours and it seemed warmer that evening.

Hallelujah! A clear morning! A low threat on-river day was expected, so we intended to cover about 20 miles to make up for our short day and our lay-over day. Wildlife along the river had been pretty elusive, although one critter came out during the night and ate chunks out of Bob's favorite Alaska hat. The critter was probably after the sweat salt, though Susan claims the hat smelled bad enough to be mistaken for ripe road kill. A bald eagle overflew us as we lazily floated along past Mackay Bar and the Polly Bemis Ranch. We didn't stop at either as we would be back in approximately 10 days on the group trip. On one of the many bends in the river Susan spotted two bighorn ewes. Bull Creek was about as far as we wanted to go this day. The upper camp was large but sun baked. Fortunately the lower campsite had large Ponderosa Pines on a flat bench above a sandy beach pull-in. After setting up, we hiked up a brushy, nearly vertical hillside following deer or elk trails. We watched two groups pass by from our vantage point 500-700' above our camp. The hillsides had a plethora of spring wildflowers that we spent some time photographing. The steep descent was slow going and one of Susan's knees was bothering her by the time she reached flat ground. Bob's medical miracle knees seemed to do okay but then Susan was carrying the pack. The evening was wonderfully warm and jackets weren't needed until quite late.

Two big rapids to run! It rained a bit the previous night, but it must have had the moisture content of heavy dew, as nothing left out was particularly wet. The river fell close to a foot at our camp during the night. Again we took our time getting ready to launch. Two groups were scouting Chittam when we arrived and one more came along after we ran. We reached a good viewing spot just as two rafts ran. Both came down the long tongue and pulled hard to the right. They didn't even come close to hitting the wall on river left. We ran then and had no problem either. We pulled out below the Vinegar Creek boat launch ramp for a stretch before continuing downstream to the Carey Creek pack bridge, where we stopped for lunch. Susan rowed most of the 12 miles from there to Spring Bar.

After securing our raft, the first thing we checked was whether our truck had been shuttled yet. We were almost a day early, so it was not guaranteed. Thrilled to find it gassed up and ready to go, we quickly loaded up in an attempt to reach Boise by nightfall. This was an extremely busy day, 20 miles on the river followed by 160 miles on curvy mountain roads. Much of the spectacular drive paralleled the North Payette, a high gradient river with sections that are churned white from bank to bank for miles.

Participants: Bob & Susan Marley

Main Salmon Group Rafting (6/26/10 - 7/2/10):

After shopping for a day or so in Salmon we were ready to meet our friends for the group trip. We stopped at the North Fork cafe for an early breakfast and it became obvious from the crowd at the store and the trailer loads of river gear out front that a lot of folks were headed for Corn Creek. We dropped some last minute mail at the Post Office, bought a few things, and headed down the road. It took us 1-1/2 hours to get to Corn Creek, the last 10 miles being as rough as two weeks earlier. One bighorn sauntered across the road and a few miles later we came upon another group of four. We followed a commercial outfitter, eating dust most of the way from a van full of people and a pickup full of gear. The river seemed much tamer than two weeks before but when we checked at the ramp it was still "High" at 5' on the gauge (about 15,000 cfs). The campground was almost empty, so we secured a great site where we could leave all of our gear on the ground and eventually launch.

Around noon Corn Creek became a mad house with folks arriving in one vehicle after another with their piles of river gear. We were elated that we had beaten the rush. We rigged for several hours and put up our tarp in case there was an afternoon rainstorm, which there was. The river was about 30' below us on a 45 degree slope with a good trail to the water's edge. With 13 people, we didn't anticipate any problem putting our rafts in the water.

We rose early, cleared out the back of the truck, sorted out the equipment needed for our August British Columbia trip, and placed it under the camper bed. We then read until Scott and Tennille turned up at 10:00 AM. They'd stayed in a Salmon motel and had only to drive 60 miles or so to the put-in. We immediately dumped all of their boating gear into our campsite and in half an hour were ready to drive the long shuttle. Since we were fairly rested, it seemed reasonable that the two of us would shuttle the vehicles around. 9 hours and 360+ miles later we reached Spring Bar and met up with the rest of our group. It was a horribly long drive on twisting-turning mountain roads. After exchanging greetings and doing a head count, we set a 7:30 AM meet time, parked and climbed into the back of our truck for some shut-eye.

Before we even emerged from the truck, we could hear that everyone was up and ready to go. We shared pastries and other goodies for breakfast and loaded everyone into three vehicles, leaving the rest at Spring Bar. We drove out to Vinegar Creek boat launch ramp and unloaded our gear. While Mike gassed up the jet boat, we loaded Lou's rental raft and everyone's personal gear. Mike and Heinz were running together to Corn Creek to minimize rafter and resource disturbance along the way. Mike took his boat up into Chittam first and promptly buried it in a huge wave that the jet boat captains call being in the Green Room. The last time he did this was in '93 and apparently it blew out all the glass in the front of the boat. This time water just flowed all around the jet boat with the top cover diverting most of it over our heads. Fortunately the motor kept running and the boat powered through this wall of water, continuing up to the head of the rapid.

The upstream run of a jet boat is the reverse of the conservative downstream run of a raft. Mike would power up the eddy, cut across a couple of powerful laterals to the tongue and then power up the tongue to emerge above the rapid. This was entertaining for the first hour or so but after awhile the noise and incessant pounding became a bit tiring. We arrived at Corn Creek around 2:00 PM and had lunch immediately. Then we moved the rafts down to the water and added the oars and other equipment. A couple of hours later we gave it up so the cook crew could prepare dinner and the rest of us could have happy hour. There were rain showers while dinner was being prepared and a hard rain fell much of the night.

We awoke to a clear day but it wasn't obvious because low hanging fog covered the mountain tops. The tents and tarps were soaking wet so we decided to make a late morning start. The Ranger had checked out our required items the prior evening, so we only had to get past the campsite selection, group presentation, and permit issuance. Casey and Bob were back and forth talking to the Ranger from 8:30 AM - 9:30 AM. Fortunately we had no campsite conflicts with the other two groups launching. They had one between themselves and a coin toss decided who would modify their plans. Eventually campsite assignment was complete and all three parties were issued their permits.

As usual it took time to load all of the gear on the rafts. The first day is difficult because no one has ever seen the pile of stuff before and figuring out where it should go is a puzzle. We left the beach at noon and after an hour or so confirmed the river was running over 4 miles per hour. Shortly before we arrived at Lantz Bar for lunch, John spotted an eagles' nest with two adults and at least one chick in it. Another party had camped at Lantz the night before and was still on the beach so we pulled in a bit below them. After lunch, everyone except Susan went up to check out the Lantz homestead and again check out the cherry trees. Not quite ripe yet, the cherries weren't too bad, but Carl pointed out some were already falling to the ground.

Seven miles later, we arrived at the excellent Blackadar Campsite, a huge flat beach that had recently emerged from the high water. The cook team de jour prepared an excellent meal of local steelhead and pilaf with hot and sour soup as an appetizer and strawberry shortcake for dessert. After dinner we broke out the Polish horseshoes and played a couple of games. Gamer Peter was in his element and taught us a thing or two about a game he had probably never played. Susan was reading in our tent when over-tired little Hudson made repeated visits wanting to sneak in and go to sleep. This was a wonderful first day on the river.

Our second river day would be pretty calm down to Barth Hot Tub with not much in the way of rapids. Thinking we had determined the clues for locating the hot spring, after we passed the two creeks coming in from either side we started searching for the boulder strewn bank where we would tie up. Unfortunately, there were a lot of those and we crept down the left side of the river, ever fearful that we would again bypass the hot tub. Eventually Bob and Scott pulled their rafts in to shore and scampered up the slope to locate it just downstream of us. We drifted down to this new location and tied up. The tub takes 20+ minutes to fill so Bob quickly scrambled up the slope to insert the drain stopper. There is a 110-degree, 4-inch line and a 1-2 inch line that is closer to 80 that are used to fill it. Users can adjust the pool temperature by letting the latter help fill the pool or by diverting it to the side. Only half our group enjoyed the bath, slowly working their way up to the tub through the poison ivy. Surprisingly a few actually stayed down at the rafts.

Another relatively quiet 5 river miles brought us to Allison Ranch and the most active rapid area on the river. Rounding the corner to the ranch, Bob ran down the center of the river and ended up on some squirrelly water that almost flipped his raft sideways. He grabbed the side of the cooler and managed to stay in the bucking raft. Next came the really big stuff: Sapp, Five-Mile, Split Rock, and Little Stinker rapids. All of these were successfully run by the group but everyone had wide eyes when finished. At that point, we thankfully boated down to Lower Yellow Pine campsite just above Big Mallard Rapid. Another small group was in upper camp. In the afternoon folks either went hiking into the Mallard Creek drainage, some reaching a ranch and airfield 5 miles from the river, or lazed around the camp and read. Another great day on the river and another super campsite, 20 more river miles covered!

In the early morning hours, we were awakened by a loud crack followed by a resounding thud. The noise came from slightly downstream near Peter's tent. A huge dead pine tree had shed its top 2/3 and buried itself into the ground below. The trunk was at least 1-1/2 foot in diameter. We all paid a little more attention to tree proximity for the rest of the trip. Expecting a short day we took a late start, leaving around 11:00 AM. No one had problems reaching the far left side of the river for an easy Big Mallard run. We continued downstream with growing concerns about upcoming Elkhorn Rapid. Avoiding the hole at the bottom of this long rapid had not been easy two weeks ago. However, decreased flows and lower water levels seemed to make it easier to reach the right bank and avoid the hole in the third stage of this long, straight rapid. Lou was so concentrated on the right bank that he claimed to never see the monstrous mid-river hole.

An eagle overflew us as we floated downstream to the Jim Moore place, where most of us took a hike to the cabins and bridge across the river. Bob flushed out a large turkey and discovered that they definitely can fly. Hudson thought it worthy of pursuit until he was called off by his Mom and Dad. The wildflowers were not as plentiful as two weeks before. After hiking for close to an hour we returned to the boats for lunch. More uneventful miles found us at the Painter Mine, where we investigated a 1934 gravesite and all of the engines, trucks, and other gear left behind from this gold mining operation. The next stop was Buckskin Bill's (the Sipple place).

It had been very hot on the river so some sat in the shade while others went though the museum and grounds. A bit upstream of us, six bighorn sheep came down to the river for water. A second boating group haphazardly tied up their rafts and we were later entertained watching one raft drift away from shore with a boatman swimming after it! Everyone eventually tired of rummaging through the tower and other sites so we headed down to our Haynie Bar campsite. The pull-in was still easy and camp was quickly set up. A great evening of sparkling conversation and Mexican food ensued. By dark the sky was again overcast and the occasional splatter was noted.

In the morning some of the group hiked back to Buckskin Bill's. Peter had an ice cream float while he was there. He also took a dunking in the stream crossing and came back to camp soaking wet. We floated down to Mackay Bar after lunch and toured their grounds. The black cherries were almost ripe and we sat under the tree eating while two eagles circled overhead. More rounds of ice cream floats were purchased and consumed. The proprietors were really friendly and now offer first-come, first-served free camping. There is a teepee to camp in, fireplace, etc. They offer hot showers for $10.00, a bit pricey but probably mighty attractive to some. Our Warren Creek campsite was definitely a high water spot. The boat beach was extremely rocky so Carl and Bob found a nice sandbar downstream that made a better campsite. Just as dinner finished a monstrous storm came in with thunder, lightning, and drenching rain. Everyone headed for the tents and that was the end of a fairly pleasant day.

The skies showed a potential for clearing the next morning. Everything was wet, so we took our time. We had drifted into a pattern of late rising and leaving. Carl, the master pancake maker, prepared an excellent breakfast. Heinz went by with another jet boat load that we thought might be John and Susan Lupo's group returning to Corn Creek. They launched two days before us and were scheduled to finish two days ahead of us. We launched around 11:00 AM, stopping at the Polly Bemis Ranch. An enormous American chestnut tree graces their grounds. These trees used to grow all over the east coast until a Chinese blight killed them. We opted to continue on to our California Creek campsite for lunch. The water level was still dropping and the river was gradually slowing down. Heavy upstream winds made us work for our miles but we arrived in camp around 2:00 PM. This was a spectacular day in camp with lots of space on a sandy beach. Dutch oven chicken and corn bread with stuffing and corn followed with Mint and Orange Milanos was a big hit with everyone.

Even after waiting for things to dry out we were still on our way by 11:00 AM. There was not much in the way of rapids until reaching Chittam. While scouting the rapid, we decided to have Bob and Susan run first so Lou could see the downstream quartering move that would be the key to getting by the big center wave train and the wall below. According to Scott, Bob entered a bit nonchalantly with not enough momentum. Bob thought he was a bit early hitting the laterals and took a big hit over the back of the raft but ended up exactly where he wanted to be to avoid the bigger stuff in the middle of the river. He was able to keep the boat pointed at the huge waves and ride their edges rather than taking the big ride over all the waves and into the bottom left wall. Susan apparently came in with good momentum and placement. The turbulence below then had its way with her a bit but she essentially had another of her fine runs. Lou now had two examples to emulate. However, to nicely confuse things, 4 rafts came downstream as Scott and he were working their way out of the scout eddy. This group did not scout. It was probably unnecessary for the first two oarsmen but the second two didn't appear to be as competent and might have benefited. One lost its oarsman near the start and the next one flipped right in front of Scott and Lou, so a rescue was going on as they entered the rapid. Scott made his usual nice run; it certainly helps to start rowing a raft at age nine. Unable to quite make the moves Lou ended up in the big wave train headed at the wall below.

We couldn't see it but his crew reported stalling on one of the huge waves and surfing back into a trough for a bit. During the surfing time Lou was ejected from the raft by an oar to the guts and they couldn't get him back. Casey and Carl mutually decided hanging on to stay in the raft might be a good idea and it finally broke free and continued downstream, exiting the rapid right side up with Carl at the oars. Scott picked a waterlogged Lou up at the end of the rapid. We continued on down to the pack bridge camp on river right near the Carey Bar take-out. Three of our group volunteered to bring the three vehicles down from the Vinegar Creek boat launch area where we started the trip. Ours was a beautiful flat campsite with shade trees. After setting up camp Carl, John, and Lou's boys went hiking up a trail to a mine site that was about three miles and a couple of thousand vertical feet away. The Marleys crossed the pack bridge and walked the road to the cherry trees. Both the black and red ones were ripe with one black cherry tree being especially tasty. Susan picked a cup full so folks in camp could taste them. After stuffing ourselves with Aztec pie for dinner and roasting marshmallows for S'mores, everyone called it an early night.

In the middle of the night it started to rain lightly, which didn't bode well for getting everything packed away dry at the take-out. We prepared a quick breakfast with chicken, rice, and tortilla left-overs and crossed the river to the Carey Creek boat ramp before 9:00 AM. We broke down Lou's rental raft and placed our gear that it was carrying into the back of Scott's truck. The Martins had to return the rental raft by 4:00 PM and were headed to Spokane for the evening. They were putting Jesse on a plane back to New Orleans the next day. Since there were five of them they drove the three vehicles back to Spring Bar, so ours would be there when we reached it in a couple or hours. After lots of fair wells we left them to finish loading the rental raft and their personal gear.

It remained cold with gathering overcast but it didn't rain our last morning. We reached Spring Bar in a bit less than two hours. The downriver speed decreased substantially at lower water levels, especially with a light upstream wind. Fortunately the rain held off and the sun shone most of the time through broken cloud cover. With a lot of help from Carl, Carolyn, John, Peter, Scott and Tennille we were able to get everything off the river, dried, and packed by 2:00 PM. We said our goodbyes and each headed off to new adventures. The scat machine at the Riggins Chevron station worked perfectly! Bob then went into long drive mode and headed for the civilization of Moses Lake. We arrived there at dusk and blundered around in the dark trying to find an RV park. We finally crawled into the back of the truck on a quiet side road and slept for six hours. After too much pressurized high-speed sorting and too much driving, we'd completed another extremely busy day!

Participants: Carolyn Balliet, Peter Curia, Bob & Susan Marley, Scott & Tennille & Hudson Marley, Casey Martin, Jesse Martin, Lou & Debbie Martin, Tyler Martin, Carl Muller, & John Stenton

Future Trip Information:

As most of you who travel with us frequently realize, our group travel plans for the coming year are usually pretty fluid in June. We will definitely be doing a sea kayaking trip and are considering another canoe adventure on the Stillwater-Labyrinth portion of the Green River. Both of us are still interested in Mediterranian travel and the magnificent Greco-Roman sites to be found there. We expect to return to Turkey soon and are planning a month long Australian trip for two early next spring or late next fall. We're also considering another far east trip to Vietnam-Laos-Cambodia. As soon as our 2011 group plans firm up, we will contact everyone on our mailing list.

If some great travel opportunity presents itself and you are looking for company, please remember that we're willing to join others' trips as well as organize them.

General Trip Information:

We must receive your deposit and a completed Q/AR form, for you to be considered for inclusion on one of our trips. If a trip is popular enough to require a waitlist, we use trip deposit dates and Q/AR postmark dates to establish one.

We continue to send information to travel friends using email. If you want to be the first to know what's happening, be sure to send us your email address and don't forget to keep it current. We'll also continue to communicate unique travel opportunities by 'special mailings' to those who travel with us frequently.

Best of luck in your adventures, whatever they are, and wherever they may be. We look forward to traveling with you sometime soon.

Susan & Bob

Updated on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 @ 4:30 MST
© 1995-2010 by Robert R. Marley